Image: Moschino, Backstage,Vogue
Special Review by Agata Mayer, Editor-in-chief
By the early 1970s it was difficult for many people to decide what was in style and what was not. For sure, the 70s were one of the most individualistic decades for fashion ever. People experimented a lot and wore anything that they wanted, combining hippie, ethnic look together with fancy wear such as hot pants, mini skirts, skin-tight t-shirts or fitted blazers in the early 70s, through mid 70s where vintage clothing, kimonos, turbans, puffy skirts, maxi dresses, knee-high boots and platform shoes were worn by women, to the late 70s that became more baggy in style and more conservative. This relaxed look transformed into the disco look, which was mostly inspired by clothing from the early 1960s. A real rollercoaster through “Me Decade”.
In the 1950s and 60s the main industrial centre of Italy and one of Europe’s most dynamic cities – Milan – became a world capital of design, architecture and fashion. Today most of the major famous Italian fashion houses and labels are based in Milan. Milan has been home to numerous fashion designers, including Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace, Miuccia Prada, Moschino, Trussardi, Missoni and Dolce & Gabbana.
Furthermore, the city hosts the Milan Fashion Week. Are you connecting the dots now?
Those 70s shows
The ’70s were a big reference this season. Several of Milan’s most storied design houses decided to put a more wearable spin on their collections by showing jeans with mixed results, billowing maxi dresses, neck scarves, flared trousers, floral and geometric prints and retro accessories.
Last season Frida Giannini captured the 60s. This season she moved on a decade.
Gucci channeled the ’70s in a slightly different manner, diverging from the bohemian vibe with washed out denim to add some glamour and sophistication. She mixed denim with drummer-boy jackets and silk kimono jackets and it worked!
Miuccia Prada also draw inspiration from the 70s. The first few designs that hit the runway were mostly black with very strong brown stitching featured on both dresses and trench coats. We were soon exposed to the amazing color palette that Prada is so adored for with each look completed with calf-length socks featuring blocks of color and patterns.
’70s tailoring, bows and Victoriana collars – Roberto Cavalli’s show was opened with an array of punchy, bright, graphic prints. Loose fitting floor-length pleated looks came cascading out in maxi dresses and tops and skirts – not immediately the vibe that springs to mind when you think of Cavalli.
Sunset colours made for an optimistic and summery palette and the psychedelic collection had a clear ’70s influence with tie-dyed chiffon dresses, suede trousers and coats and crocheted mini and maxi dresses. Pucci’s signature sports aesthetic was translated into easy separates, some slightly more tailored pieces.
Alberta Ferretti made a romantic statement with sheer embroidered dresses, ethereal, romantic and free-spirited. The brand’s spring/summer 2015 collection captured a true essence of the summer of love. Suede vests, fringe edges, denim and laser cut floral ponchos clearly showed what the designer’s muse was for the spring season. The designer was clearly in a ’70s state of mind.
Etro delivered its signature bohemian vibes with the usual dose of psychedelic paisley and fringing. Beads, feathers and amulets hung from the models’ hips, hands and ears. That trademark paisley swirled through movements of blue and red. The New Mexico shaman Pocahontas swaying into Morrison’s „Riders On The Storm“ hit.
Milan Fashion Week brought a diverse range of looks for fashionistas, such as the crafmanshift of the 1970s and did not disappoint. And one thing is sure, since now, denim is no longer just for dress-down Fridays.
Image: Emilio Pucci, Backstage, Vogue
Image: Gucci, Backstage, Vogue
Image: Marni, Backstage, Vogue
Image: Roberto Cavalli, Backstage, Vogue
All images are credited to www.vogue.com